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Tangier-Tetouan-Al Hoceima, Morocco · pop. 46,168
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Three self-guided walks timed around the tour buses — dawn on the spine, the makers' lanes, and sunset from the Spanish Mosque — with the etiquette residents ask for.
Arrival without the scams, fair prices, the crowd clock, souk days, Akchour, and the honest story of the blue.
Emergency numbers that work from a mobile, the hospital, ONEE's water and electricity lines, and the night pharmacy system.